20 years of Elfin Lakes

Over 11-12 August, G and I camped at Elfin Lakes, in Garibaldi Park. It was the first time either of us have hiked into a campsite, and the first time she's hiked to Elfin Lakes.

It's been almost exactly twenty years since the first time I visited Elfin. It was the first real hike I did after moving here, and I've been back at least ten times since, with a whole lot of different people. So on the trail this time, it felt like I was hiking through all the layers of time since I've been here, with the people I've hiked the mountains with, and it was lovely to be able to add a new layer with G.

Here's me and Bill at the lakes in October 2004:

Bill and Will at Elfin Lakes in 2004

We miss you, Bill ❤️.

I don't think there are any hikes here that are so accessible but so beautiful. Admittedly, we have the slog up through the forest, past the piles of bear poo. But we know things will get better once we reach the old Red Heather campground and its magnificent toilet, as modelled by Andrea in July 2008 and G, 16 years later:

Red Heather toilet

And here's what it looked like in April 2011:

Red Heather toilet in the snow

Then as we get out of the trees the Tantalus mountains sneak up behind us, and we have the long airy walk along the ridge with Atwell Peak keeping us company and the sweep across to Opal Cone.

Atwell Peak

Atwell and G

Then round the corner and the Mamquam massif floats into view like some deranged fondant cruise ship.

Mamquam

And we hike down Paul Ridge.

Paul ridge

And over a bump, and there are the lakes at our feet, just like always.

G at Elfin

Only this time it is different, because we don't have to go back. We put the tent up, go for a swim, eat ramen in the hut, and watch the mountains melt into the night.

Swimmming

Ramen

Sunset

In the morning, we're inside a cloud. We saddle up for the hike back.

Next morning

On the way, G keeps me entertained with stories about the Warrior Cats, with special attention paid to Brightheart. Going back down through the trees seems to take forever, like it always does, but we get there in the end.

Good job, G! I'm grateful to all the people who've hiked the trails with me in the past, and happy to have shared this one with you.